I’ve only been to the Usuma Dam once and I don’t live in Abuja so take everything I say with a teaspoon of salt. Having said the above, I would skip seeing the Usuma Dam because I’m tired of begging Nigerians for access or permission to take photographs. If you want the views at the point where the dam is, you will probably have to do some form of begging or paying (bribing) for access.
Taking a motorcycle from the junction just off the road to Bwari should get you past several gates, hassle free, to the final one at the dam. If you choose to come in a vehicle, know that the said gates above are locked to vehicles and you will probably have to beg or pay to get through.
I got up to the final gate in a motorcycle but considering that I was totally devoid of energy for begging at the moment, I asked to the driver to take me to the “side of the water with canoes and fishermen.” That’s how I ended up at Ushafa (Google Maps says Ushapa instead of Ushafa).
To get to Ushafa, you will have to get back on the road to Bwari and at the junction that goes to Bwari, take a left turn into the settlement. You will have to navigate a maze of buildings and dusty streets to get to the waterfront. No begging for access or permission to take photographs required. Same waterbody, different location, hassle free.
I struck up a bargain with a fisherman to take me for a ride in his canoe. Less than a kilometre in, he asked me if I could swim. I wasn’t sure what my answer should be. A riverine man like me should just say yes, but I wasn’t sure if I could even remember how to do that thing I do in large waterbodies that looks like swimming. So I mumbled some inaudible words and told him he could take me back to the shore.
I was alone, didn’t feel comfortable, and as a result didn’t enjoy this visit as much as I would have liked. I don’t think I scratched the surface of the possible views I could have gotten. The photographs probably reflects my uncomfortableness. I’ll definitely be visiting again next time I’m in Abuja.
